I talked to Kerri Fitzpatrick, experienced equestrian and founder of The Equine Welfare Network about maintenance of her outdoor arena and tips on schooling surfaces and equipment for the upcoming year.
If your arena is outdoor it may have limited use during the winter months depending on the type of surface you have, but regardless of surface type they all require maintenance.
Kerri explains: “Traditionally all my horses and ponies were schooled in the field as I didn’t have the luxury of an arena back then. Even though I love the arena, in the spring and summer months I will still section an area in the field to school and prepare my horses for outdoor shows.
“Grass has a great aesthetic appeal but it is not ideal for all schooling, especially jumping: grass arenas can end up with bare spots, mud holes, in drier weather dust tracks can form and in wet weather can become very slippery. However, if you’re only intending grass for light use, it provides great natural footing, good traction and spring.
“Grass maintenance can be time consuming as it requires weeding, fertiliser, water and mowing but is a vital part of the upkeep and the work in springtime certainly reaps dividends.”
Regardless of arena type, there are a number of important factors for the maintenance of outdoor arenas exposed to the winter elements. These include:
SURFACE
Kerri explains: “Assuming your arena is for multi-purpose use, for good footing you would need a base layer of 4-6 inches [if regularly jumping it may require to be as deep as 10 inches]. Good footing is paramount for safety and support to encourage a horse to move forward with energy and elasticity.”
She goes on to explain that harrowing is necessary to maintain the surface of most arenas but is often overlooked. She states the importance of harrowing an arena slowly in different directions, starting with the short width followed by the long width: harrowing in one direction may cause high and low spots. Kerri also points out that if you don’t have a harrow, your arena should be raked by hand.
“Pay particular attention to the outside track as ruts can be formed here depending on the level of use and type of use,” she recommends. “It is important to ensure all build up is evenly harrowed or raked to ensure surface remains even for good footing.
“Without this method, it can result in hard footing associated with joint and ligament problems… a good watering programme will support arena maintenance and counteract against hard footing.”
Kerri suggests developing and practicing watering techniques so that the footing maintains a good moisture level in the summer months: easily done with a garden hose or sprinkler system.
She also proposes the daily maintenance of your arena should include picking up any stones that have surfaced, removing weeds and ensuring all horse droppings are removed.
DRAINAGE
In terms of drainage, Kerri describes the need for an arena to be ideally located on dry, well-draining ground.
“If your arena has become flooded or developed surface pools of water, the main reason for this is poor drainage, over use, or an uneven surface due to lack of regular maintenance” she adds.
Kerri points out that working wet surfaces with a harrow usually speeds up the drying process. If drainage problems continue it could be of benefit to cut out a shallow ditch around the perimeter of the arena.
She says: “Depending on the surrounding ground type and angle of the drain the rainwater collected in the ditch can flow directly onto lower ground or can be drained away… If your arena continues to be too wet, slippery, or too muddy, this could be down to poor original design, an insufficient base or inappropriate surface material.
“Cutting corners or going for the cheapest option can result in more expense in the long run, not to mention the harm to you horses.”
FENCING & GATES
Fencing and gates should be regularly checked: for wood fencing in particular, after the winter months you should be checking for signs of rot, broken fencing and loose nails.
Kerri suggests: “I would always recommend that broken sections of fencing should be replaced as soon as it is noticed as it can be costly if left. Spring is a good time of year to be giving your arena fencing a fresh coat of paint or wood stain, always use good quality outdoor paint or stain to protect from the elements.”
JUMPS
Kerri advises that ideally jumps would be stored when not in use, but even after storage would still require maintenance at the beginning of the season.
“Some people opt for the plastic blocks and poles but I use the wooden poles and wings because whilst training young horses or ex-racehorses in particular, it is important for them to learn that if you hit a pole it doesn’t just pop off… it helps them to pick their legs up correctly which may prevent injuries to both horse and rider in the future.”
Kerri points out the downside of using wooden jumps is they can rot and become slime-coated, especially if left outside. So her recommendations are to check all poles and wings for signs of rot, splinters and splits and to store them properly when not in use.
She suggests that if they can be repaired, do so, if not don’t take the risk of injury for both you and the horse. Always check pole cups are in working order and never leave anything lying in the arena. She adds: “spring is the time to give jump poles and wings a fresh coat of paint and this gives you additional opportunity to check for any damage.”
Kerri Fitzpatrick is founder of The Equine Welfare Network, established as an independent forum to enable individuals, charities, organisations, community groups; government bodies and media who are involved, or have an interest in the escalating equine crisis in Ireland/Northern Ireland.