NOW is the perfect time to examine your saddles and riding equipment to ensure everything is in order for the busy summer season. Here is our spring cleaning tack checklist.

Bridlework

Rusted component parts of the bridle can infiltrate the leather and perish it. Tack needs to be closely monitored for rust, any rusty tongs or buckles need cleaning and the leather checked for damaged if the bridle has been left buckled up.

Check ALL stitching for signs of wear and tear. You need to put the stitching under strain by pulling at the leather and the stitches. This will give you the best indication as to the integrity of the leather.

Clean the dirt and grease from the leather and follow that by applying a coat of saddle soap with a dry sponge. Do not allow the soap to lather, as it will then leave a white coating on the leather that may go hard. Alternatively, use one of the liquid soaps that are widely available on the market.

Regular applications of neatsfoot oil and leather soap with a high fat content are essential for replacing any natural oil lost from the leather.

For very dirty or greasy tack, a small handful of washing soda crystals added to the water will really help and will not affect the suppleness of the leather.

Polish all metalwork. Rusty metalwork can be helped with wire wool or a steel brush for cleaning car parts.

When you get caught out in the rain while riding, the tack should be dismantled as soon as possible, stripping the bridle to its component parts and removing the stirrup leathers and girth from the saddle. Clean it in the usual way, and then allow it to dry out naturally and slowly. Don’t be tempted to place it near a heater or a sunny window to speed up the drying process as this will make the leather go very hard and you may not be able to revive it.

After drying, apply a coat of leather dressing or oil. When the dressing is fully absorbed, apply a coat of saddle soap or balm using an almost dry sponge and then the tack is ready to assemble and is ready to use.

Don’t oil your tack too often: restrict oiling to when it is new, when it gets very wet, or if it has been unused for a while and has dried out. NOTE: If you have bought a new bridle, saddle or leather girth for spring, always check that it fits your horse before treating it with any kind of oil or leather dressing, as the saddler will not give a refund on oiled tack.

Saddle

A saddle that is well looked after should last 25 years.

The girth straps of the saddle get the most wear. Be sure to check the underside of the girth straps. That is where you will see the most wear and the girth holes starting to stretch.

Oil the underside of a leather saddle, the part in contact with the horse’s back. Do this on a monthly basis.

If your numnah is wet or sweaty be sure to take it off the saddle when you are finished riding. The salt in a horse’s sweat is corrosive. Leaving on wet numnahs will cause the leather to rot over time.

Store your saddle correctly on a saddletree or stand and preferably with a fabric cover; this will guarantee the shape and condition of the saddle when not in use.